Hublot disrupted traditional watchmaking by embracing unconventional materials and bold design. Founded in 1980, the brand pioneered rubber straps on luxury watches — scandalizing Geneva’s establishment — before Jean-Claude Biver transformed it into a billion-dollar phenomenon with the Big Bang in 2005.
In this guide, we explore Hublot’s “Art of Fusion” philosophy, examine the core collections, and understand why this polarizing brand commands such strong reactions from collectors.
In This Guide
The Art of Fusion
Carlo Crocco founded Hublot in 1980 with a simple idea: combine gold cases with rubber straps. Traditional watchmakers rejected the concept — rubber belonged on diving equipment, not luxury timepieces. Crocco proved them wrong.
Jean-Claude Biver acquired Hublot in 2004 and launched the Big Bang in 2005. The collection combined multiple materials — ceramic, titanium, carbon fiber, gold — in a single case. Sales exploded from 25 million to 400+ million euros within years.
Business Philosophy: Biver’s marketing genius positioned Hublot as the watch of celebrities, athletes, and disruptors — creating demand through exclusivity and visibility rather than heritage.
Big Bang — The Icon
The Big Bang redefined modern luxury watchmaking. Its porthole-inspired case, visible screws, and multi-material construction became instantly recognizable — and widely imitated.
| Reference | Size | Material | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Big Bang Steel | 44mm | Steel/Ceramic | $11,900 |
| Big Bang Unico | 44mm | Titanium | $19,900 |
| Big Bang King Gold | 44mm | King Gold | $35,500 |
Classic Fusion — Refined
The Classic Fusion offers Hublot’s design DNA in a more restrained package. Thinner cases and cleaner dials make these watches more versatile for formal occasions while maintaining material innovation.
| Model | Size | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Classic Fusion 42 | 42mm | $6,100 |
| Classic Fusion Chronograph | 45mm | $9,400 |
| Classic Fusion Orlinski | 40mm | $12,400 |
Spirit of Big Bang
The tonneau-shaped Spirit of Big Bang takes the Big Bang’s material philosophy into a barrel case. Same multi-material construction, different silhouette.
- Case shape: Tonneau (barrel)
- Sizes: 39mm and 42mm
- Materials: Ceramic, titanium, King Gold, carbon fiber
- Movement: HUB4700 or Unico
Material Innovation
Hublot develops proprietary materials at their R&D facility:
| Material | Description |
|---|---|
| King Gold | Proprietary 18K red gold alloy — more scratch-resistant |
| Magic Gold | Gold-ceramic composite — scratch-proof 18K gold |
| Texalium | Aluminum-coated carbon fiber |
| Sapphire | Fully transparent crystal cases |
Unico Movement
The in-house Unico movement represents Hublot’s watchmaking credibility:
| Caliber | Type | Power Reserve |
|---|---|---|
| HUB1280 | Automatic | 42 hours |
| HUB1280 Unico | Chronograph (flyback) | 72 hours |
Hublot Watches — Expert Answers
Q: Is Hublot a luxury brand?
Yes — owned by LVMH alongside TAG Heuer and Zenith. Entry-level models start around $6,000, with complications reaching six figures.
Q: Why do watch collectors dislike Hublot?
Traditional collectors criticize the marketing-driven approach and young heritage. Hublot prioritizes innovation over tradition — that’s either refreshing or offensive depending on your perspective.
Q: Best first Hublot?
The Classic Fusion 42mm at $6,100 offers Hublot’s design DNA in a versatile, understated package.
Q: Hublot vs Rolex?
Completely different philosophies. Rolex offers timeless design and conservative investment. Hublot offers bold statements and material innovation. Choose based on personality, not hierarchy.
Final Thoughts
Hublot proves that tradition isn’t the only path to luxury watchmaking success. Whether you embrace or reject their approach, there’s no denying the brand’s impact on contemporary horology — and their material innovations genuinely advance the industry.
